The historic circuit of Ethiopia

The top of St. George's Church in Lalibela.

Inside Bet Medhane Alem Church in Lalibela.

Standing outside one of the side doors in Bet Medhane Alem Church in Lalibela.

The iconic picture of St. George's Church in Lalibela.

The Rome Stele, the largest stele ever to be raised, in the northern stelae field in Axum.

A chapel in St. Mary of Zion Church in Axum.  This chapel contains the famous Ark of the Covenant, but only priests are allowed inside.

King Fasilides's Castle in Gonder.

The interior of King Fasilides's library in Gonder.

The beautiful paintings inside Kebran Gabriel monastery in Lake Tana.

The common exterior to many of the monasteries, this one of Kebran Gabriel monastery on an island in Lake Tana.

                Ethiopia is a country apart in Africa.  It’s the only country to have their own script (Amharic), a unique food, and a country known for its history rather than its animals.  That is why people come to visit the great ruins of Ethiopia, known as the northern historical circuit.

                While Addis Ababa is the current capital of Ethiopia, this land has been commanded from several different locations throughout the past 2000 years.  The first main capital was located in Axum, where strong ties to trade routes of the ocean along the coast of Eritrea made it a regional powerhouse.  Axum’s light shined the brightest around 300 AD, and during this time Christians from Lebanon and Syria made the pilgrimage to Ethiopia to spread the word of Christianity.  Since that time Orthodox Christianity has been the dominant religion of Ethiopia, no small feat considering the fact that Ethiopia is nearly surrounded by regions with a majority Muslim population. 

                Axum’s decline was inevitable due to scarcer resources in the region, trading competition, and environmental factors.  This led to the capital moving south to Lalibela in the 12^th and 13^th centuries.  This period resulted in some of the best churches ever built.  Constructed out of the volcanic rock in the ground, these churches literally were carved out complete with vaulted ceilings and floor plans.  Churches range from free standing to partially supported by walls to fully built into the walls.  The most impressive of these churches is St. George church, one of the many free standing churches in the area.

                The capital was once again moved, this time to the west near the Sudanese border of Gonder.  The fertile area made this the prime administrative area for the 17^th and 18^th centuries in Ethiopia.  Palaces and churches are reminiscent of Camelot’s style in the main area known as the Great Enclosure.  What the British in World War II, and before them the Sudanese Dervishes, didn’t destroy remains here in a highly condensed area of ruins.

                Along the northern historic circuit is the town of Bahir Dar.  This town lies four hours south of Gonder and gives prime access to the old monasteries in Lake Tana built in the 18^th and 19^th centuries.  These monasteries lie on the banks of the lake, but many are located on islands on this massive lake that is the source of the Blue Nile. 

                This trip can be taxing if taken by bus alone.  Covering more than 1,500 miles alone on this route, I recommend taking a couple flights (some are as cheap as $45) to make it easier on you.  However, no matter how you go, this trip will take you at least ten days to accomplish all the main stops on the route.