Sumo wrestling

The sumo wrestler (also known as the rikishi) has a handler to carry all his things and walks behind him at all times.

The match begins at any point, but just because they line up to wrestle doesn't mean it will immediately happen.

A ring entering ceremony (dohyo-iri) signals the beginning of the sumo matches for the day.

The sword ceremony takes place during the dohyo-iri, and is usually conducted by the best sumo wrestler in the tournament.

The judge (gyoji) wears a black hat similar the the Shinto priest's hats.  This role has a hierarchy usually delineated by their footwear.  Low level gyojis are bare foot while the highest gyojis will wear socks or straw sandals.

Sumo wrestlers stomp to rid the evil of the sumo ring.  

The raising of the arms and placing the palms upwards is a gesture showing the gods that the wrestlers are not carrying any weapons.

Throwing a wrestler out of the ring is one of the many ways to win a match.

The roof of the ring is intended to look like a Shinto shrine, and the four tassels represent the four seasons of the year.  

Usually the wrestlers will conduct the rituals prior to a match in tandem.  Throwing the salt, washing the face, and stomping the ground are almost always done together at the same time.  

Matches can last over a minute or sometimes just a couple seconds.  This one was locked up and even for a while and went on for about 30 seconds.  

Nearly 1500 years ago the ancient art of sumo was founded for ceremonies promoting peace and bountiful harvests.  These matches were manifested into plays and rituals thus making them part of the ancient Shinto religion of Japan.  Once the Imperial Court in the 8^th century brought in sumo for an annual festival, the sport would become an institution in Japanese culture up to modern times.

Sumo matches are two week events where each wrestler will have one match per day for fifteen days straight.  This round robin style tournament gives the tournament cup (AKA Emperor’s Cup) to the wrestler with the best overall record.  Tournaments are held six times per year with a champion declared at the end of each tournament (Osaka, Nagoya, Fukuoka, and three in Tokyo).

              During a typical match day there are several different ceremonies taking place.  Matches begin around 8:30 in the morning with the lowest class of wrestlers beginning first.  The top level wrestlers introduce themselves around 2:30 in a ring entering ceremony followed by a sword bearing ceremony conducted generally by the best sumo wrestler (yokozuna).  Once the ceremonies are completed, the matches start with two wrestlers entering the ring and conducting a “cold warfare” ceremony of their own prior to actually wrestling.   This cold warfare can be sprinkling the ring with salt, stomping the ground, wiping the face, raising the hands in the air, or simply walking away.  Rules now indicate that a match has to commence within four minutes of entering the ring, but prior rules stated there was no such time limit.  While cold warfare can take minutes (where Japanese state that the tension to the match builds enormously), the match is over usually in a matter of seconds.  A bow dance is performed after all the matches are completed, and the day’s festivities are over around 6:30 at night.

How does one win a match?  Several ways: throwing the opponent out of the ring, having your opponent step out of the ring, touching the ground with anything than his feet, or your opponent having unsportsmanlike conduct (eye-gouging, punching, touching the band wrapped around the wrestler).  There are no weight limits so variances in size are common in matches.  What you lack in size you must make up for in speed and skill, and during my day in Fukuoka I witnessed several undersized men win for the day.

This is a great activity if you are in Japan during a sumo match.  Tickets generally run $40 - $200 and are good for the entire day.  You’ll witness a sporting event that felt more like a religious ceremony and a piece of Japanese culture that is still near and dear to the people.

Kyoto and Nara's temples and shrines

A purification pool (similar to a holy water station at the entrance to a church) sits in front of the  Nishi Hongan-ji temple.  People pour water on their hands (and sometimes face) in an act of purification before entering the temple.

The interior of the Nishi Hongan-ji temple.  Ornamental and quiet, this large open room is where the Japanese pray.

Two of the gargoyle style figures on top of the Daitoku-ji temple in northwest Kyoto.

Chion-in temple as seen by night.  The steps and lane leading up to the temple make this one of the most beautiful sites in Japan.

Standing at Isui-en garden in Nara.  Near the great buddha, this garden is one of the most beautiful in all of Japan.

Todai-ji, the largest wooden building in the world.  This temple is the centerpiece to Nara's collection of temples.

The 49 foot high Great Buddha (Daibutsu) sitting at the entrance to Todai-ji.

Two of the many beautiful buildings that is the Kiyomizu-dera temple in southern Kyoto.

The main building of Kiyomizu-dera and home to the Hosso school of Buddhism.  

A gorgeous veranda lined entrance to the Ginkaku-ji temple in eastern Kyoto.

This main torii (Japanese religious gate) signifies the entrance to the Fushimi-Inari Taisha shrine in  Kyoto.

Fushimi-Inari Taisha is famed for the thousands of toriis that line the grounds of the shrine.

Inside one of the many torii-lined pathways of the Fushimi-Inari Taisha shrine.

One of the iconic images of Japan, Kinkaku-ji (AKA the Golden Pavilion) attracts tourists by the thousands.

These wooden structures are impressive in their massive scale.  This temple in Higashi Hongan-ji is central Kyoto is proof enough.  

        

               Japan’s temples and shrines are a call to a cultural past and current context of Japanese.  Straddled in between tall buildings and throngs of people going every which way possible, these wooden masterpieces conjure us to remind ourselves that while we are in a first world nation we are not in the Western hemisphere.  Kyoto is the center of these temples and shrines, and continues to be a major cultural center and tourism spot (50 million tourists per year).  Combining the nearby city of Nara, you will get a full glimpse of the best temples and shrines that Japan has to offer.

                Kyoto, not Tokyo, has been the historic capital of Japan for the past twelve hundred years.  Prior to Kyoto, Nara was the capital at the time Japan first became a nation-state near 710 AD.  For underdetermined reasons (flu outbreak, logistics, protection from potential enemies), the Emperor’s palace and imperial family moved to Kyoto and would remain there until the mid-19^th century.  It was during this time that the iconic buildings we flock to see were built in this beautiful town.

                You could easily take four days just to see the main sites that Kyoto and Nara have to offer.  UNESCO has declared an astonishing amount of protected sites in this region.  The temples and shrines are scattered throughout the Kyoto, so jumping from temple to temple takes time.  Nara is an easy 40 minute train ride from Kyoto and can be walked in a few hours.  Some of the more adventurous rent bicycles for $12 per day and brave the traffic to see more temples in a shorter period of time.  Many of the temples are accessible via the Japanese Railway and subway system, but a few (Kinkaku-ji) are off the beaten track.  (Terminology note: shrines are religious buildings of the Shinto religion and temples are religious buildings of the Buddhist religion)  These buildings have major significance since 84% of Japanese practice Shinto and 71% practice Buddhism (compared to only 2% of Japanese being Christian). 

                I visited Kyoto and Nara during the fall time which gives the opportunity to see the leaves change color and avoid the blistering summer heat.  I’d advise the spring time (beginning of April) when Japan’s famous cherry blossoms are in full swing and temperatures are still pleasant.  Make sure to book well in advance as Kyoto is always full and can be difficult to find vacant rooms.